Sears 14' Aluminum
bought this boat because of the "Sears" name and it came with a decent
trailer, cover, oars, small Minn Kota, and it was all delivered for
$360.00. When I started to work on it I realized it was not made that
great. It had one center keel or keelson and two 8' ones on each side,
which could have been heaver gage metal and larger. Once it was flopped
over on the trailer I had serious doubts about fixing it. The trailer
was also a 1968 Sears made by Shoreline. It was probably bought
together and assembled by the former owner. There in lies the problem.
The two bunks were only two feet long and had been mounted in front of
the axle. This left two foot of boat and motor hanging out in mid air.
The result was a keel broken in two places and one broken rib inside
not to mention a lot of dents.
started the project by putting the boat on a level place in the lawn
and literally stomping the dents out of the bottom. Then some fine
tuning with a rubber mallet, hammer and dolly. I removed all the rivets
in the keel from the stern forward just over 8 ft. and right around 4
ft from the stern cut off the damaged section.
I got some .062 aluminum sheeting from a friend who builds race cars,
and cut it into 3.5" X 8' strips. Using a siding break and some roof
flashing I bent up a test piece and fit it to cover the existing keel.
With this pattern I went to a sheet metal fabricating shop and had them
bend three 8' pieces. These pieces had to be fitted to each other and
to the existing section of keel by means of some hand
in a wooden jug I screwed together.
the bottom was cleaned and sanded I dry fitted a short 4' replacement
section and an 8' cap which would join and stiffen the two.
applying 3M 5200 sealant to all
parts I snugged the transom end and either side of the joint between
the new and old sections. With everything lined up I worked from the
transom forward fastening everything with 10 X 24 Stainless machine
screws, washers and nuts.
third fabricated keel I cut in half and attached as two additional 4'
keels to help stiffen the bottom some more. The remaining 4' section
was cut and formed to cap the cracked rib. When I got working inside I
also noticed the rivets on the ends of the seats were tearing out. This
led to new mounting brackets and end caps for the seats as well as
stiffening the center supports. At this point I could pretty much build
one from scratch
1964 Duratech Neptune
How To Build
A Simple Wooden Outboard Motor Stand
FOR LESS THAN TWENTY BUCKS
30, 3 drywall screws
ea. 1 5/8 drywall screws
ea . 2 X 4 s X 8 ( about 5.00 at Home Depot or Lowes )
had the screws and lumber on hand and only bought the dolly.
ea . 18x 30 Movers Dolly purchased at Harbor
Freight. ( $10.00 ).
first thing I did was remove the carpet.
Next I used
a circular saw to cut out one of the long cross sections on the 30
side. This piece was used to fill in on the opposite side.
two 18 pieces of 2 x 4 were screwed on edge, to
either end from the bottom side.
two 24 pieces were screwed upright on either end 5 back from the
front side and two angled braces were cut and screwed to fit from the
last step was a 30 cross piece to mount the motors on. I didnt have
any thing larger than a 2 x 4 so I used a piece of 1 ½ x 1
¾ to catch the bottom of a motor mount. The finished piece
shown here with two 10hp motors.
1970 Starcraft with a 1978 Meercury 70hp
1974 Evenrude 9.9 hp elect start
19?? Sea King 9 hp
1973 200 (20 HP )
1966 3.9hp Merc
1961 500 Merc
1959 MARK 58A
1960 Merc 300
1958 Mark 55
1958 Mercury Mark 25
1956 MARK 30
1955 7.5 HP Scott Atwater
1954 MARK 50E
195? Firestone 7.5 hp
1952 12hp Goodyear, Sea Be
1951 Seaking 5hp
1949 10 HP Merc KF7
1947-49 ? Sea King 5 hp
1948 Sea King 5 hp
1948 Johnson 5hp Mod TD 20
1948 Champion 4.2 hp
1946-47 Champion 4.2 hp
1940 Johnson AT 10
1940 Elto 1.8 Hp #4351
1929 Johnson S-45