DEATH WISH OUTBOARDS 

Email editor@deathwish-outboards.com

 

                                         

D.I.Y.Gas Tank Filter

 

Removing Dents & Dings

 

1968 Sears14' Aluminum Keel Repair

 

1964 Duratech Neptune 16'

 

How To Build A Motor Stand for Under $20

 

PARTS MOTORS

 

Some Of The Collection

 

Crestliner

1958 Crestliner

Commander

12' Speedster

 

D.I.Y. Replacement Outboard Gas Tank Filter

I had my 12 HP Goodyear out for a first run and all went well until I ran the fuel down to low. I thought I had cleaned everything out of the tank or at least all I could see but forgot the new ethanol would loosen any varnish that was out of sight. It didn't spoil a days fishing but we came back only about half as fast as we had left. So after cleaning the tank and the carb a second time I decided to see what could be done with the porous bronze tank filter. The answer was not much it was just too old and tired. However I had some fine mesh brass screen used for making up sink fawcett filters. I cut a piece and wrapped it around the appropriate size drill bit then fit it into the old filter fitting, which had all the remnants of the bronze filter removed. With the screen and drill bit still in the fitting I used a hose clamp to hold the screen tight and close the seam.

 

The fun part was soldering. First I tried an electric gun. No dice! Next was a torch. No way!

Finally I dug out an old copper ended soldering iron and heated it with the torch. That was the ticket!

You need to do about 3/4" at a time and then move the hose clamp. With the seam done I pulled the drill bit out and used it to mark a circle on a scrap of screen. The screen was cut a little bit bigger around than the mark and then using the bit once more I pushed it through a flat washer forming the end plug. The plug goes in the end and using a smaller drill bit it was lined up and positioned from the inside. At this point I wish I had taken pictures while I was doing the actual work. The plug soldered in easily and with the brass fitting end in a vise I heated it with a torch and soldered it like copper tubing.

 

Some Hints .... clean your screen and fitting with copper or brass cleaner rinse and let them dry thoroughly. Use small gage solder and flux paste.

 

Removing Dents and Dings With A Home Made Anvil/Dolly

 

I was testing my skills straightening out this old 12" Starcraft when i came up with this idea.

Luckily I had a piece steel laying around that was about 36" x 4" x 1". At first I laid the steel in the grass but it was to hard to line it up let alone see what you were doing. so I took one of my sawhorses and screwed two pieces of 2x4 on to it. one piece was to help balance the steel and the other hold the transom of the boat from falling off. I slid the boat back and forth over the steel and while using a regular body or planishing hammer to knock out the dents. I realize everyone does not have a big chunk of steel hanging around but a good piece of hardwood salvaged from a wooden pallet might work as well. Before starting I sanded and filed any dings or burrs on the steel bar.

 

 

     

 

 

 

 

Do it yourself pads for your transom clamps.

 

As part of a deal I wound up with a Min Kota trolling motor, which was missing pads from the transom clamp. So I found one from an old Evenrude and copied it. The first thing was to cut a couple washers out of 14 gauge steel slightly larger than the OMC. This allows for the difference in size once it is formed. Next I found a piece of 3/4" round stock and turned one end down leaving a 3/16" peg. Then I had to find something with a diameter just under the size of my washers to use as a die. A one inch pipe coupling was just right. With the washer inserted over the peg I centered it all and gave it five or six wacks with a bib ball peen hammer. The hole was then drilled out to the finished size.

As you can see the results are pretty good.

 

If you could get some fender washers close enough in size you would be ahead of the game. Also I think I would drill a hole in the end of the round stock and screw the washer in place. That way you would not have to line it up every time before you strike it. If you had an arbor press or a big vise you could probably eliminate the peg on the end of the driver as well as the hammer.

 

 

 

 

 

1952 Craftsman (Atlas) Prop Cone Polisher

 

 

 

 

My First Speedster Was a 13.5 ft/ Strip Plank Thompson.

It was probably a 1952-55 Vintage.

I bought it around 1964 for 25.00

 

It needed a lot of work including new decks and seat backs.

Not only did it turn heads but with an old green 25 hp Johnson it went like hell.

 

1958 Crestliner Commander  (speedster) 12' ???

         

This boat was registered (2002) as a 1958 but so far I have nothing to verify that year. I believe this model was only made from 1955 - 1957, according to Crestliner ads I have seen. So It may have been a 57 leftover sold as a 58. The rear seat and dash appear to be original as does the front dash and seat. The front seat back is made of pine and therefore most likely a replacement. The rear seat back looks original but I have not seen any ads that confirm it. The inner and outer wood on the transom has probably been replaced. I will put more pictures up as I get the time to build the site.

The person I bought it from began stripping and polishing the hull then decided to sell it. I am guessing it may have had something to do with the fact that the bottom has surface pitting and blemishes from where it probably sat on grass or dirt for a prolonged period of time. It will never shine like the sides but I plan to paint it close to original anyhow.

 

 
 1968 Sears 14' Aluminum

       

I bought this boat because of the "Sears" name and it came with a decent trailer, cover, oars, small Minn Kota, and it was all delivered for $360.00. When I started to work on it I realized it was not made that great. It had one center keel or keelson and two 8' ones on each side, which could have been heaver gage metal and larger. Once it was flopped over on the trailer I had serious doubts about fixing it. The trailer was also a 1968 Sears made by Shoreline. It was probably bought together and assembled by the former owner. There in lies the problem. The two bunks were only two feet long and had been mounted in front of the axle. This left two foot of boat and motor hanging out in mid air. The result was a keel broken in two places and one broken rib inside not to mention a lot of dents.

I started the project by putting the boat on a level place in the lawn and literally stomping the dents out of the bottom. Then some fine tuning with a rubber mallet, hammer and dolly. I removed all the rivets in the keel from the stern forward just over 8 ft. and right around 4 ft from the stern cut off the damaged section.

Next I got some .062 aluminum sheeting from a friend who builds race cars, and cut it into 3.5" X 8' strips. Using a siding break and some roof flashing I bent up a test piece and fit it to cover the existing keel. With this pattern I went to a sheet metal fabricating shop and had them bend three 8' pieces. These pieces had to be fitted to each other and to the existing section of keel by means of some hand hammering  in a wooden jug I screwed together.

           

Once the bottom was cleaned and sanded I dry fitted a short 4' replacement section and an 8' cap which would join and stiffen the two.

  

After applying 3M 5200 sealant to all parts I snugged the transom end and either side of the joint between the new and old sections. With everything lined up I worked from the transom forward fastening everything with 10 X 24 Stainless machine screws, washers and nuts.

     

The third fabricated keel I cut in half and attached as two additional 4' keels to help stiffen the bottom some more. The remaining 4' section was cut and formed to cap the cracked rib. When I got working inside I also noticed the rivets on the ends of the seats were tearing out. This led to new mounting brackets and end caps for the seats as well as stiffening the center supports. At this point I could pretty much build one from scratch

 

 

___________________________________

 

1964 Duratech Neptune

 

 

 

 

 

 

____________________________________

How To Build A Simple Wooden Outboard Motor Stand

FOR LESS THAN TWENTY BUCKS

 

Materials:

Aprox. 30,  3” drywall screws 

5 ea. 1 5/8”  drywall screws  

2 ea . 2 X 4 s X 8’  ( about 5.00 at Home Depot or Lowe’s )

I had the screws and lumber on hand and only bought the dolly.

1 ea . 18”x 30”  Movers Dolly purchased at Harbor Freight.  ( $10.00 ).

The first thing I did was remove the carpet.    Next I used a circular saw to cut out one of the long cross sections on the 30” side. This piece was used to fill in on the opposite side.

 

                           



Then two 18” pieces of  2 x 4  were screwed on edge, to either end from the bottom side.

                  

 

Next two 24” pieces were screwed upright on either end 5” back from the front side and two angled braces were cut and screwed to fit from the back side.

                                   

 

The last step was a 30” cross piece to mount the motors on. I didn’t have any thing larger than a 2 x 4 so I used a piece of  1 ½’ x 1 ¾”  to catch the bottom of a motor mount. The finished piece is shown here with two 10hp motors.

 

                   

 

 

1970 Starcraft with a 1978  Meercury 70hp

 

 

 

 

 

Outboard list

1974  Evenrude 9.9 hp elect start

19??  Sea King  9 hp

1973 200 (20 HP )

1966 3.9hp Merc

1961 500 Merc

1959 MARK 58A

1960 Merc 300

1958 Mark 55

1958 Mercury Mark 25

1956  MARK 30

1955 7.5 HP Scott Atwater

1954 MARK 50E

195?  Firestone 7.5 hp

1952 12hp Goodyear, Sea Be

1951 Seaking 5hp

1950 Firestone

1949 10 HP Merc KF7

1947-49 ? Sea King 5 hp

1948 Sea King 5 hp

1948 Johnson 5hp Mod TD 20

1948  Champion 4.2 hp

1946-47 Champion 4.2 hp

1940  Johnson AT 10

1940  Elto 1.8 Hp #4351

1929 Johnson S-45

 

 

Hit Counter